Micro-Needling in Cosmetics


Humanity seems to be able to do everything in the struggle for youth and beauty, inventing new methods and drugs! One of the latest anti-aging innovations – micro-needling – is expected to take the podium in cosmetology. Even Angelina Jolie is hopelessly in love with this procedure.


It is impossible to have too many needles?

Many of you associate micro-needling therapy with acupuncture. In part, they are similar, but the latter procedure has much more needle punctures. Although it sounds pretty daunting, pain during therapy is minimal. But first things first.

What is micro-needling therapy?

What is new about it? This is a cosmetic treatment performed by using a special roller-skater with numerous small needles (from 169 to 540 or more). Microscopic lesions of the skin, which remain on the patient’s face after the “acquaintance” with the prickly roller, stimulate the production of new collagen and elastin. Thereby, it leads to significant improvement of skin cells regeneration, reduction of scars and wrinkles, and slowing down the aging process.

According to clinical trials, micro-needling was much more effective than chemical peels, laser skin resurfacing, and dermabrasion; in terms of the production of elastin and collagen the results of the micro-needling therapy are not worse than those of CO2, Fraxel, and IPL laser rejuvenation procedures. In general, the micro-needling therapy is applied on the face, neck and the surface of the head to improve hair growth.

Home roller is less scratchy

The so-called pocket dermaroller was invented at the end of the last century by a German scientist. After that, in 2000, this useful tool became available. And in the United States Dermaroller company has opened. Its representatives are still successfully promoting the miracle roller (it costs about $149), which is slightly different from the professional device used in beauty salons or clinics.


Home Dermaroller needles are not as long (about 0.2 mm), and the number of them is small (about 162 pcs.). Therefore, the procedure is simple and less painful. However, in practice, the use of dermaroller at home is not so efficient than in specialized shops. But it can be purchased in order to periodically maintain the effect of professional treatment.

Do not forget about cleaning and disinfection

In fact, micro-needling therapy is a more economical, but no less effective method than the famous and expensive laser rejuvenation (Fraxel). Before the procedure, the cosmetologist first conducts a mandatory cleaning of the face, then applies an anesthetic cream (e.g., Emla) onto the patient’s skin. After 15-20 minutes, the skin is disinfected and, if necessary, covered with a special mesotherapeutic cocktail. It penetrates the skin cells after micro-punctures of the dermaroller (scalproller, mesoroller) much better.

Next, the specialist gently presses on the specified areas of the skin, repeatedly using the roller for 5-10 minutes. After that, the beautician can apply a nourishing mask and a special sunscreen on the face because micro-punctures can make the skin more vulnerable to UV rays. Usually, the procedure is prescribed 1-2 times per week for 2-3 months, or until the problem is solved.

Each patient gets a new roller

The instrument for these medical procedures is made of medical steel. Its needle width is virtually constant – 0.1 mm. But the length varies depending on the purpose of the procedure:

  • short needles of 0.2-0.5 mm help the skin more rapidly absorb nourishing products, improve complexion, make micro-massage, strengthen the skin surface and struggle with fine wrinkles around the eyes;
  • average needles of 0.5-1.5 mm are used to massage the scalp, eliminating the loss of hair; on the face and body, they help eliminate stretch marks, smooth the skin, improve skin tone, and tighten pores;
  • long needles from 1.5-3 mm regenerate skin cells and increase skin elasticity, reduce scars, stretch marks and scars.

It is important to ensure that the beautician uses sterilized rollers or takes a new one every time. It is necessary to exclude the possibility of infection penetrating through the skin micro-punctures left by the roller. The owners of the most sensitive and delicate skin feel discomfort, and tiny wounds on their face may bleed slightly. In any case, it is important to consult with a dermatologist before the procedure.

Hidden risks of the prickly therapy

After the procedure, the patients are asked to treat their face (or head) especially carefully for about a day, without disturbing it with cosmetics (except for special healing and moisturizing agents), without masks, makeup, creams and so on. While micro-wounds are healing, it is better to avoid taking a bath, going to sauna, solarium, a swimming pool or a gym. One should not let clothing or accessories touch the puncture site and should use sunscreen to protect the skin from the sun (SPF 20).

Pain from the dermaroller may be felt by the people experiencing stress or during menstruation. During the healing of wounds, some patients experience dryness and a slight burning sensation of the skin, which is considered quite normal. But if after 24 hours, redness and swelling have not disappeared, it is best to consult a doctor.

Contraindications of micro-needling therapy:

Experts do not advise taking the micro-needling therapy if the patient:

  • has moles (nevi);
  • skin diseases (including acne, herpes, etc.);
  • keloid scars;
  • rosacea;
  • different skin injuries (burns, wounds, inflammation).

Do not take the risk if you are sick with diabetes, suffer from chronic infections, hemophilia, epilepsy, cancer or cardiovascular disease; if your skin is prone to keloids or is excessively sensitive. And, of course, there is no need to hurry and take this procedure during pregnancy.